Become a Master Gardener!

A love of gardening, a search for knowledge and a desire to share that knowledge with others is central to why people join the Master Gardener program. They remain Master Gardeners to enjoy the friendship of others who share their interests, to gain and share research-based horticultural knowledge and to give back to the community through their volunteer commitment.

If combining your passion for people and plants sounds appealing, you may be a good Master Gardener candidate. A formal education in horticulture isn’t necessary–we will provide the training and resources to help you teach others.  

To become a University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener in Crow Wing County, you must first apply and be accepted into the program. The learn more about the application process please contact Jackie Froemming, Extension Educator, at or at 218-824-1068.

Alliums – Too Pretty for the Vegetable Garden, Brainerd Public Library, Tuesday, June 9 at Noon

Alliums – Too Pretty for the Vegetable Garden

Register at the library or by calling 829-5574 

Tuesday, June 9, 12:00 to 1:00 p.m.


Join Coralee Fox, Master Gardener for this free and informative class thanks to the U of M Extension Office. Alliums belong to the onion family, but are some of the showiest flowering plants available for your flower beds. They are easy to grow, come in a wide range of colors, and in all sizes. Plant them in many areas to enjoy color throughout the spring and summer. This class will focus on some of the alliums you love and introduce some that you haven’t met.

Presentations facilitated by certified U of M Extension Crow Wing County Master Gardeners. Master Gardeners are University of Minnesota trained volunteers whose job is to educate the public about a variety of horticulture subjects using readily available, up-to-date research-based information. The Master Gardener Program educational effort is designed to enhance the public’s quality of life and to promote good stewardship of the environment.

Give It a Grow @ the Brainerd Public Library


Give It a Grow @ the Brainerd Public Library

give it a grow

Monday, May 11, 2015

The community is invited to try growing and saving peas and beans this summer through exciting new gardening & learning opportunity called “Give it a Grow.”
“Give it a Grow” is a collaboration with Crow Wing Energized, University of Minnesota Extension Crow Wing County Master Gardeners and the Brainerd Public Library to provide free open pollinated, non-GMO, untreated seeds that people can grow, eat & save the seeds to plant next year.

“We want to encourage as many people as possible to give growing a go. Growing your own food can be fun, it tastes great and you don’t even need a garden,” Jolene Bradley, Brainerd Public Library Manager said. “Everyone is welcome to come to the Brainerd Public Library to pick up free pea and green bean seed packets and information on growing, caring and even saving seeds for next year.” She emphasized that everyone can grow something, somewhere, because growing vegetables can be very simple and even done in pots.

Seeds from store-bought hybrid plants cannot be saved. Bradley reported, “When people buy hybrid seeds they have to buy new seeds each year. However, if you grow open-pollinated seeds, you can save seeds each season for planting next year. Each time you save seeds from a plant, you are helping to improve that variety’s unique characteristics. We can create plants that are ideal for our local environment and feature the qualities which are the most desirable to us.”

“By saving the seeds from the best plants that you have to have even better plants next year. We would love to see seed saving become a normal practice, just as it was for many of our grandparents.”

The kickoff for “Give it a Grow” is a presentation on “Gardening 101” with Crow Wing County Master Gardener and owner of The Farm on St. Mathias, Arlene Jones, at the Brainerd Public Library on Tuesday, May 19 at 12 noon. This free presentation will discuss the importance of getting your soil ready, planning, planting, caring for your plants and solving common garden problems.

Seeds are now available at the Brainerd Public Library, while supplies last.

Contact: Jolene Bradley
Brainerd Public Library Manager
Phone: (218) 829-5574
Fax: (218) 829-0055 Brainerd Public Library
416 South Fifth Street,
Brainerd, MN 56401

Ask the Master Gardener, May 2015

Ask the Master Gardener

Dear Master Gardener:
I’ve been trying to grow lupine for the past few years with no luck. Are they hardy here?

Lupine (Lupinus) are cool climate perennials native to North America. The Russell hybrids are hardy in zones 3-7 and were developed by George Russell around 1937. Lupines bloom in late spring and early summer and have striking, bold upright spikes that are dense with pea-like flowers. The stately lupines have a wide range of strong colored flowers in shades of cream, pink, yellow, blue, violet and some varieties that are bicolored. They should be planted in full sun and in well-drained, moderately fertile, slightly acidic, sandy soil. Lupines require plenty of water and should be kept evenly moist throughout the growing season. Lupine flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds.

Dear Master Gardener:
Will lavender grow in the Brainerd Lakes area?

Most lavenders (Lavandula) are hardy in zones 5-9, so unfortunately they are not hardy here in the Brainerd Lakes area, which is zone 3.

Dear Master Gardner:
I love watching hummingbirds and was wondering what I can plant in my flower gardens to attract them.

Try to keep something in bloom continuously throughout the summer to keep the
hummingbirds visiting your gardens. Plant flowers that have nectar-rich, tubular blooms such as fuchsia, salvia and petunias. Hummingbirds can easily access the nectar with their long, narrow bills and tongues. Hummingbirds usually feed while hovering, so flowers that either dangle or protrude out will provide enough air space for the birds’ beating wings. They can see the color red from afar, so flowers in red shades always get their attention; however, they will happily sip nectar from flowers in almost any color.

Plants with multiple flowers in open clusters are appealing to hummingbirds. Other annuals they favor are geraniums, flowering tobacco, nasturtiums, lantana and impatiens. A hardy, showy perennial vine that hummingbirds love is Lonicera ‘Dropmore Scarlet’ (honeysuckle vine). Grow it on a trellis and watch the hummingbirds flock to the gorgeous, tubular orange flowers that bloom off and on throughout the summer.

Perennials that hummingbirds are also attracted to include Penstemon, Phlox, Monarda (bee balm), Columbine, Hemerocallis (daylily), Lupine, Liatris and Veronica. Biennials such as foxgloves and hollyhocks entice hummingbirds. A shrub that invites hummingbirds (and butterflies) to visit is the weigela, which has a spectacular display of bright pink, tubular flowers in early summer with intermittent bloom throughout the rest of the growing season. ‘Centennial’, ‘Minuet’, ‘Pink Poppet’, ‘Polka’ and ‘Rumba’ are hardy to -35°F.

wild strawberry
wood anemone
Canada violet
marsh marigold
bird’s eye primrose
various violets
Canadian wild ginger
Labrador tea
calla lily
trout lily
Virginia waterleaf
Virginia bluebells
wood sorrel


  • According to DNR records, the last frost-free date in Crow Wing County falls between May 22 and 28. Resist the urge to plant most annual flowers and vegetables before then. If you buy them before those dates, be prepared to cover them when temperatures hover near 32° degrees F. Also be aware that yards may contain pockets of mini-climates that may be warmer or colder than the spot holding your thermometer.
  • Vegetables that can be planted in early May because of their cold tolerance are parsley, lettuce, early cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale and onions. Wait until late May or early June to plant beans, sweet corn, tomatoes, melons and squash.
  • Start a vigorous and regular weed removal plan. Weeds removed now can’t produce seed that would germinate later in the summer.
  • Begin deer and rabbit repellant use and install fences and other physical restraints now before those critters put you on their regular meal run.
  • Prepare beds by adding organic matter to the top 8-12 inches of soil.
  • Fertilize raspberries late this month. Apply ¼ c. of ammonium nitrate (33-0-0) per hill.
  • Lawns generally need 1 inch of water per week. Keep grass at 3 – 3 ½ inches in height. Mow frequently, removing no more than 1/3 of blade height at each mowing.
  • Perennials need very little fertilizer. Top dress established plantings with several inches of compost every 3-4 years.

Crow Wing County Master Gardeners are trained and certified volunteers for the University of Minnesota Extension. All information given in this column is based on research and information provided by the University. To ask a question, call the Master Gardener Help Line at 218-824-1000, extension 4040 and leave a message. A Master Gardener will return your call.

UMN Extension Crow Wing County Master Gardeners’ Website

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© 2015, Regents of the University of Minnesota. University of Minnesota Extension is an equal opportunity educator and employer. In accordance with the Americans with Disabilities Act, this publication/material is available in alternative formats upon request. Direct requests to the University of Minnesota Extension at 612-624-1222.

Extension Educator Hosting Info Booth at Fleet Farm in Baxter

BRAIINERD, MN – April 24, 2015 – Jackie Froemming, Extension Educator for Natural Resources & Consumer Horticulture, and Coordinator of the Crow Wing County Master Gardener Program, has team up with Mill’s Fleet Farm to have an ongoing informational booth with educational materials at the Baxter store during the month of May.

According to Froemming, the goals of this new community outreach effort are “to go where people are rather than asking them to come to the County Extension office or to a class, and to provide educational materials relating to natural resources and consumer horticulture”.

To answer the public’s questions, Froemming will be staffing the booth from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. on May 1st, May 4th, May 15th, May 18th, and May 29th.

Depending on the response from the public, the booth could be extended to additional months during the growing season, and the dates and times when the booth will be staffed could also be expanded.

For additional information about this new community outreach effort contact Jackie Froemming at 218-824-1068 or at Email.


UMN Extension Master Gardeners of Crow Wing County Donate to Central Lakes College Foundation


After a successful annual Garden Expo on April 11th, UMN Extension Master Gardeners of Crow Wing County donated $1,200 to Central Lakes College Foundation on April 20th. JoAnn Weaver (left), President of the Crow Wing County Master Gardeners, presented the check to Pam Thomsen (right), Director of CLC Foundation. The donated funds will provide two, $600 scholarships for students in the Horticulture Department.

Photo credit: 2015, Jackie Froemming, Extension Educator

New in 2015….Gardening Classes at the Crosby, Crosslake and Pequot Lakes Libraries!

Goal: To reach more people in “Greater Crow Wing County”
Goal: To provide free-of-charge educational offerings
Goal: To promote local food production

Project: New collaborations with other libraries within Crow Wing County

Promotional flyers:




Please promote….we will determine next year’s offerings at these locations based on the response receive this year.

Just as with the classes at the Brainerd Public Library….a minimum of 5 pre-registered participants are needed to hold a class.

Ask the Master Gardener, April 2015

Ask the Master Gardener

Dear Master Gardener,
Several years ago a large white pine in my yard was struck by lightning, leaving a shallow crack about three inches wide and 80 feet tall. Since then birds and insects have enlarged the crack greatly, making us wonder if the tree will fall on our house — or on the neighbors’. My brother-in-law just bought a chain saw and said he will cut it down, but I worry that he might injure himself or our property. What should I do?

Hire a certified arborist. An arborist is one who is knowledgeable about trees, and a certified arborist is not only knowledgeable about trees but has also been certified as such by training and testing by a recognized professional organization such as the American Society of Certified Arborists. Such persons can assess tree damage, prune, and diagnose tree diseases and insects. They will be able to tell you how healthy or hazardous your tree is and, if necessary, take your tree down in a safe and insured manner. Certified arborists will treat you professionally, showing you credentials, offering proof of liability insurance, and giving references and estimates of cost. They will not ask for full payment in advance (half before starting and half when the job is completed is usual).

Trees are valuable assets, providing shade, beauty and increased property value. Pruning and removing them is dangerous—and expensive–when incorrectly done.

Dear Master Gardener,
I live near the Paul Bunyan Trail and often walk or bike on it. I am intrigued by the wildflowers I see along the wayside and would like to learn the names of some of them. What flowers am I likely to see in April?

After long months without green and growing plants, we Minnesotans are eager to see them again. Although only a small number of wildflowers bloom as early as April, we appreciate them happily because of their long absence. The Eloise Butler Wildflower Garden staff in Minneapolis has put out a list of only five flowers that reliably bloom in April. Because snow cover, temperature and other circumstances vary, even these flowers may appear earlier or later than expected.

The five are: skunk cabbage (Symplocarpus foetida), snow trillium (Trillium nobilis), hepatica (Hepatica nobilis), bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis), and false rue anemone (Enemion bileratum). For some reason they did not include the one we usually see first at the Northland Arboretum in Brainerd, the pasque flower, Anemone patens, also called Pulsatilla patens.

Next month we will print a list of what wildflowers flowers to look for in May.

Dear Master Gardener:
I have a tendency to go to the garden center when the new annuals arrive and want to buy every new plant that catches my eye and I end up with a hodgepodge of flowers in my containers. This year I’d like to go with a plan and was wondering how to design beautiful containers?

First, you want to make sure you are growing your plants in the best possible growing medium. For most containers, a soilless potting mix is a good choice. It is lightweight with room for moisture and air and will be void of soil-borne diseases because it doesn’t have topsoil in it. Good potting mix crumbles when you squeeze it. Some mixes have fertilizer and perlite added and some are specially formulated for outdoor containers; these are excellent options too. If you have a container that has all succulents and/or cacti you will want to purchase a medium specifically for succulents or make your own mix with equal parts compost, turkey grit and sand.

Second, you will want to choose plants that have similar growing requirements (sun vs. shade, dry vs. moist). The classic design formula for containers is “Thriller, Fillers, and Spillers”. Choose one plant to be your thriller or focal point plant and place it in the center or back of your container, depending on how your container will be viewed. Plants that make great “thrillers” are Persian Shield, New Zealand flax, Dracaena spikes, purple fountain grass, tall snapdragons, angelonia, and ‘Golden Sword’ yucca. Sansevieria (snake plant), which is a houseplant, makes a beautiful thriller for a summer container, then can be brought back in as a houseplant. Another fun way to add drama and height to a container is to add curly willow branches to a container.

When you choose your fillers look for plants with colors, forms or textures that contrast or call attention to your thriller. Lantana, wax begonias, geraniums, coleus, calibrachoa, Pentas, petunias, and coleus are just a few of many options. The “spillers” are your trailing plants, which soften the edges of your pot and wind among the bases of your other plants. Some plants that make good spillers are verbena, sweet potato vine, bacopa, lobelia, sweet alyssum, vinca vine, creeping Jenny and ivy.

You don’t have to do a “Thriller, Filler, Spiller” design to have a beautiful container. A container with one large, bold plant such as a small tree, flowering shrub, large houseplant, or perennial (such as a hosta) can make a statement. You can add Scotch moss to soften the container’s edges and act as a living mulch. Another option is to choose any plant that has at least one bold and interesting feature on its own, which can be used as a single specimen designed container; for example, a container filled with plumbago, petunias, geraniums or tuberous begonias. For single specimen containers choose plants that are in scale with the container.

Last, you may want to add a layer of mulch to the top of your containers to help your plants maintain the amount of moisture needed, as pots tend to dry out easily, especially in very hot weather.

Dear Master Gardener:
I am confused about the different types of begonias. Please explain.

It’s no wonder you are confused as there are over 1500 known species of begonia, ranging from rhizomatous perennials a few inches high to 10 foot shrubs. Many are grown indoors and prized for their beautifully colored and textured foliage or showy flowers. They are native to moist tropical and subtropical regions of all continents, except Australia, and are most diverse in South America.

Although begonias are actually perennial in areas that don’t freeze, in Minnesota they are grown as annuals. Cane-like begonia have been popular for many years and are known as Angel Wing begonias. They have high branching stems that produce pendulous panicles of light salmon-pink flowers. Dragon Wings begonia grows two to three feet tall, with tall arching canes, glossy deep green leaves and most commonly pink or red flowers. They are great in hanging baskets, window boxes, containers, or garden beds.

Semperflorens is probably the most widely grown begonia and is known as the wax begonia due to its waxy looking leaves. These begonias can’t be beat for continuous flowering throughout the summer. They can be grown in partial shade or full sun and withstand drought better than other begonias; however, they definitely prefer moist, well-drained soil. The varieties with bronze foliage do better in the sun than the green varieties. Tuberous begonias are also popular annuals. They grow best in partial shade and need frequent watering. They produce two to four inch wide flowers in white, yellow, pink, orange and red. There is a trailing type that looks nice in a hanging basket. You can dig up the tubers in the fall and replant them the following spring. If you decide to do this, cut the tops back to within a few inches of the tubers, dry them, then pack them in cardboard boxes between layers of vermiculite, peat moss, or wood shavings and store them at 45-55° F.

The real beauty of the begonia world is the Rex Begonia, a type of rhizomatous begonia that is grown for its lovely, multicolored leaves. Although Rex Begonia do bloom, they are not grown for their flowers but for their spectacular leaves, which can be green, gray, silver, pink, red, lavender, or a very deep maroon. They are often grown as houseplants, but if you decide to put them outside during the summer they need to be kept in part shade.


  • If you used rose cones and tree wrap over the winter, remove them now.
  • Gradually remove mulch from bulbs, perennials and roses. However, recover them if evening temperatures fall below freezing.
  • Pansies, violas and snapdragons can safely be planted now.
  • Cold-hardy vegetables that can now be planted are spinach, kale, chard, onions, lettuce and radishes.
  • Check your watering system to insure that it is in working order.
  • If you are starting new beds or have ones that aren’t doing well, have your soil tested. Download for instructions.
  • To get the most out of lawn fertilizer wait until after one or two mowings. Water in well.
  • Crabgrass pre-emergent herbicides applied this month in our area are likely to be ineffective. Wait until mid-May.
  • Plant tomato seeds indoors early this month. They need only 6-8 weeks under lights to reach planting size. Putting out large plants or getting them early sets them back and reduces their potential yield.
  • Corn gluten meal helps prevent weed germination in lawns and is best applied late in April. Like all pre-emergent herbicides, it needs to be watered in well and won’t become fully active for about two weeks
  • Don’t be fooled by ads for “miracle plants” such as Zoysia grass plugs, tree tomatoes and MN-hardy peaches.

Crow Wing County Master Gardeners are trained and certified volunteers for the University of Minnesota Extension. All information given in this column is based on research and information provided by the University. To ask a question, call the Master Gardener Help Line at 218-824-1000, extension 4040 and leave a message. A Master Gardener will return your call.

UMN Extension Crow Wing County Master Gardeners’ Website

Find us on Facebook

© 2015, Regents of the University of Minnesota. University of Minnesota Extension is an equal opportunity educator and employer. In
accordance with the Americans with Disabilities Act, this publication/material is available in alternative formats upon request. Direct requests to
the University of Minnesota Extension at 612-624-1222.

Ask the Master Gardener, March 2015

Crow Wing County Master Gardener Program

Ask the Master Gardener

March 2015


Dear Master Gardener,

 I’m getting antsy to start some vegetables.  I know that most vegetables do best when their seeds are planted directly into the garden, but aren’t there some that can be started earlier under lights?  What is the process for doing so?

You are correct that most vegetables should be planted directly into the garden, but some can, and perhaps should, be started earlier because they need longer to mature or do best in cool spring soils.  Among those vegetables most amenable to starting indoors are broccoli, cauliflower, early cabbage, peppers and tomatoes. All should be planted in mid-March except tomatoes, which should be planted in early April.

To begin, assemble your equipment:  planting trays, seeds, sterile potting soil, adjustable shop lights, and a light timer.  Moisten but do not saturate enough of your potting soil to fill the cells of the planting trays.  With your finger or a pencil end, make a small depression in each cell.  Place 2-3 seeds in each depression and cover with about ¼ inch of dry soil.  When the tray is full, mist the surface and cover the tray with the rigid plastic dome that came with the tray or cover the top surface tightly with plastic wrap.  Lower the shop light to about 3 inches above the trays and set the timer to provide 14-16 hours of light each day.  Check the trays every day to keep them just barely moist.

The seeds will germinate in 1-2 weeks, at which time the plastic should be removed. Not all seeds will germinate, and those that do may do so at differing rates. As they get taller, snip off the weakest seedlings until each cell contains only one plant. Raise the lights as the seedlings grow, keeping them consistently three inches above the tops of the plants. The trickiest part thereafter is watering enough but not too much.  “Damping off”, in which a seedling will keel over, its thin stem collapsed and blackened, results from too much moisture. If the seedlings become too large for their cells, transplant them into larger containers.

When the last frost date arrives, begin the process called “hardening off”, the transition from the warm, protected conditions indoors to harsher, more challenging conditions outdoors.  Place the tray(s) outside in a spot sheltered from the sun and critters during the day. Over about a week gradually increase the time in the sun until full days are spent there.  Then the seedlings can be transplanted into the ground, and before you know it, you will be eating tasty fresh vegetables.


Dear Master Gardener:

My wife and I were shopping for cabinetry and doors for our remodeling project and noticed that knotty alder is a very attractive and popular wood right now for cabinets and doors. Do alder trees grow in Minnesota?

Alder trees are in the birch family Betulaceae, and the genus Alnus. Alders tend to grow in wet, slightly acidic soils especially along the edges of wetlands. The speckled alder grows in Minnesota and has gray bark that is interrupted with pale warty lenticels.

Alders form a symbiotic relationship with a nitrogen fixing fungus in their roots and convert nitrogen from the air to a usable form in the soils. This not only allows the tree to grow well in very poor soils, but also makes nitrogen available to other plants growing nearby. Just like adding legumes can improve the life of our gardens, alders perform the same function in the forest, often benefiting the trees, shrubs and understory plants around them. Because they have aggressive growth potential and improve soils, they are useful for land reclamation after disturbances. The alder can actually be beautiful and functional and can be trained to a tree-like form by removing lower branches.

The alder that is most commonly used in woodworking is the red alder, which is a North American hardwood typically found in the Pacific Northwest. It can range from rustic with heartwood, streaks, pin holes and open knots to clear and unmarked. It is a softer wood than maple or cherry, has consistent color, stability and accepts stains and finishes very well, so it has proved to be an excellent species for furniture and cabinetry.


Dear Master Gardener:

I’ve heard that Blue False Indigo is a deer and rabbit resistant plant.  Does it grow in this area?

Baptisia, false indigo, is an easy to grow, low-maintenance, long-lived perennial that is hardy to zone 3. At maturity a Baptisia gets about 3-4 feet in height with a spread of 3-4 feet, but it can take three years to become an established, flowering plant. They develop an extensive, deep root system and should not be disturbed once established. Baptisia are members of the legume, or pea family and have the capability of fixing nitrogen in the soil. Plant them in deep, rich soil that drains well and add lots of organic material to the soil.

A Baptisia blooms for several weeks in May to June and grows best in full sun, but can tolerate part shade. Their black seedpods are valued additions to dried flower arrangements. These plants have no serious insect or disease problems. They are a non-preferred plant for rabbits and deer and attract butterflies.

Baptisia australis, blue false indigo, forms a mound of bluish green foliage and blooms with spikes of one-inch blue flowers, maturing to 48 inches. There is also a dwarf variety, Baptisia australis var. minor, that matures to half the size at 24 inches. ‘Purple Smoke’ has gray-green stems with purple blue flowers that look gorgeous at peak bloom. ‘Carolina Moonlight’ has spires of soft, butter yellow pea-like blooms with blue-green foliage. Baptisia can act as a shrub, or make an excellent addition to a perennial border, cottage garden or native plant garden.


  • Finish pruning oaks this month. Pruning them in April through June will attract sap-loving beetles carrying spores that cause oak wilt.
  • Cut pussy willow and forsythia shoots and put them in water for an early taste of spring.
  • Often March snowfalls are heavy and wet, bending evergreen branches. Resist the urge to shake the snow off and let Mother Nature do it. Even seemingly gentle shaking can break branches.
  • March is the ideal time to prune apple trees. Thin the center for good air and light penetration. Remove all water sprouts (shoots growing straight up). For large trees hire a trained arborist.
  • Check chokecherries for black knot cankers. Prune them out, cutting back to healthy wood.
  • Resume fertilizing houseplants, using fertilizer at half strength while plants are actively growing. Repot crowded plants in pots just one size larger.
  • If you have overwintered any bulbs such as cannas, dahlias, and begonias, check them over, discarding any that are rotted or desiccated.
  • Repot stored geraniums and begonias this month in order to have blooms before midsummer. Use good, fresh soil and water them regularly to initiate new growth. Give them plenty of sun.

Questions or comments?

Crow Wing County Master Gardeners are trained and certified volunteers for the University of Minnesota Extension. All information given in this column is based on research and information provided by the University. To ask a question, call the Master Gardener Help Line at 218-824-1000, extension 4040 and leave a message. A Master Gardener will return your call.

UMN Extension Crow Wing County Master Gardeners’ Website

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Selecting and Growing Hostas – March 10, Noon to 1 p.m.

Selecting & Growing Hostas
Brainerd Public Library
Tuesday, March 10, 12:00 to 1:00 p.m.


Join Jackie Froemming, Extension Educator for this free and informative class thanks to the U of MN Extension Office.

SELECTING AND GROWING HOSTAS ‘Big Daddy’, ‘Surfer Girl’, ‘Gentle Giant’, ‘Dancing Queen’, ‘Rhinestone Cow-boy’, ‘Little Devil’, ‘Winter Warrior’…so many HOSTAS!! Come join us to learn about selecting and growing the most popular shade perennial.

Register at the library or by calling 829-5574

Presentations facilitated by certified UMN Extension Crow Wing County Master Gardeners. Master Gardeners are University of Minnesota-trained volunteers whose job is to educate the public about a variety of horticulture subjects using readily-available, up-to-date research-based information. The Master Gardener Program educational effort is designed to enhance the public’s quality of life and to promote good stewardship of the environment.